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Valentini 2016 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo
Valentini's Trebbiano is, quite perhaps, the best white wine in Italy. Certainly it is the one that is the longest lived and one of its hardest to acquire.
Edouardo Valentini was known for his extreme selection of grapes, with barely 5% of what he made ending up being released in the bottle, selling off most of his production in bulk. Edouardo died in 2006, but his legacy has been continued by his son Francesco. Whilst much of Italy was planting international varieties and chasing scores from the American press, Valentini continued to make wine in the Italian way, holding fast to his local varieties and winemaking traditions: the Quintarelli of the South, if you could imagine that.
His white, like all his wines, is not made every year, but when it is it is a masterclass in winemaking. It is a particular style, certainly not for everyone: powerful, nutty, huge amounts of acidity and rich texture. It has some fruit, just a little mind you, and you can discern some white currant and pear.
This is a one-off, no doubt.