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Casal Pilozzo 2014 Colle Gaio 'The Old White'
£38.00
In stock
SKU
ITLAWCPCG14B
Colle Gaio is the 'Grand Cru' of Frascati. One single vineayrd planted to one variety, Malvasia del Lazio, AKA Malvasia Puntinata. Antonio Pulcini is perhaps Italy's most underrated wine producer. This is an off-the-radar wine, known only to insiders. The wine can basically last forever. The 2014 is the latest release, but the cellar is rammed with vintages back to the eighties, and perhaps older. There is almost nothing in the wine world like this. The closest comparison would be the white Riojas from Vina Tondonia, or at a further stretch, Chateau Musar White
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The Producer
Casal Pilozzo
Casal Pilozzo is unequivocally the greatest producer of wines in Frascati, being the source of one of the South of Italy's greatest white wines, Colle Gaio.
Colle Gaio is a 4 hectare vineyard next to the winery, planted to one variety, Malvasia del Lazio (AKA Malvasia Puntinata) on volcanic tuff. The resulting wines are extraordinary, having a seeming imperviousness to age.
Pilozzo also produces a more everyday version of Frascati, made from the main three grape varieties of the region, Malvasia Bianca (AKA Malvasia di Candia), the aforementioned Malvasia del Lazio, and Trebbiano Toscano. If Colle Gaio is a wine for adventurous drinkers, there is a small degree of conventionality to the Frascati Superiore, but a delicious one.
The Wine Region
Lazio
Whilst the rest of Italy is surging forward, making distinctive and authentic wines, Lazio has been left behind a little bit. It perhaps suffers from its legacy of Frascati and the, quite frankly, 'nothing' wine that is Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone (nice story - shame about the wine), which have justifiably poor reputations, since the vast majority of the former is shipped in bulk for bottling in other parts of the country. Elsewhere, there are few DOCs which have any reputation or significance on the international market, but just like anywhere else, you can find little gems every now and again.
Having just besmirched Frascati, there is in fact another side to this story. This is a remarkably beautiful DOC perched on an ancient volcano, Monte Albano which last erupted around 5000 BC, with a cooler, elevated exposition overlooking Rome. The number of estate wines produced here are few and far between, but amongst them, there is some quality to be found, with around half a dozen or so producing wines that are worthy of interest. The wines are normally a blend of varieties, mostly Malvasia Bianca, Malvasia di Lazio (AKA Malvasia Puntinata) with smatterings of Greco and Trebbiano Toscano. We follow the producer, Principe Pallavicini who is also known for its wine from the DOC of Roma, made entirely from Malvasia Puntinata and quite a remarkable wine it is too.
The most recent addition to our range is the historic estate of Casal Pilozzo, most famed for their single vineyard Colle Gaio. One of Southern Italy's most extraordinary white wines. A wine that is seemingly impervious to age. Even at 25 years old the wines continue to develop and improve.
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Volcanic Wines
Volcanic wines, a fascinating category within oenology, derive their distinct characteristics from the geological composition of volcanic soils. These rock formations and soils, formed by ancient lava and ash deposits, impart unique mineral nuances to the grapes. High minerals like potassium, magnesium, and iron influence the vines' growth and the subsequent wine profile.
Volcanic wines often exhibit pronounced acidity, attributed to the soil's poor water retention, which stresses the vines and promotes high-quality grape development. The mineral-rich environment encourages gradual ripening and imparts a remarkable complexity to the final product. Sulphur and volcanic gases in the soil may influence the wine's aromatic compounds and ageing potential.
Furthermore, the porous nature of volcanic soils aids root penetration, extracting distinct flavour compounds from deep within the earth. This intricate interplay of geological elements results in wines with a captivating interplay of minerality, vibrant acidity, and a sense of place that truly reflects the tumultuous origins of their vineyards.
For further reading, we recommend John Szabo's comprehensive book on Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power.
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