Kumeu River 2020 Hunting Hill Chardonnay
Of the 4 single vineyard wines, Hunting Hill is invariably my favourite. It is the most 'Kumeu' of Kumeu's wines. Compared to Coddington, Hunting Hill is the more elegant of the two, again with Grand Cru presence. The 2020 has hazelnut and marzipan notes, with just a hint of a delicious bitter twist which brightens up the palate whilst framing the structure of the wine. If I were to sum up this wine with one word it would be 'essence'. Unashamedly Burgundian, which also makes it quintessentially Kumeu. If only Burgundy were this good for this money.
"Really nervy nose. Truly burgundian, if one is allowed to say this. Great fruit and great tension. Just the job and amazingly vibrant and persistent on the finish. You could drink this already but it will clearly last really well – though winemaker Michael Brajkovich is consistently cautious with his suggested drinking windows; 'will improve with bottle age for four to six years'. A hint of Puligny here." Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com