Kumeu River 2020 Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay
Maté's vineyard is the made from the oldest vines on the property planted to the Mendoza Chardonnay clone, and for me this is mostly the reason that this wine is a little more New World-y than the other single vineyard wines. Always fatter and darker with fruit very much in the golden spectrum. The 2020, however, is a little different: not quite as flamboyant as previous years, but the weight is still there. Jancis Robinson likens it to Corton Charlemagne, which I cannot disagree with - the latent power and almond bitterness bring that fantastic vineyard to mind. What it thankfully misses is the hardness and inaccessibility of a young Corton Charlemagne.
"Pale gold. Quite an opulent nose. I must say the nose made me think involuntarily of some Corton-Charlemagnes. Really precise and mealy with perfect balance. You could already enjoy it but it will surely become even more complex in bottle. Long and satisfying, a wine designed to soothe sore throats. Quite a triumph; easy to see why it's the most expensive in this range." Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com