Kumeu River 2020 Estate Chardonnay
The Estate Chardonnay is the wine that built the reputation of Kumeu River, long before they were making single vineyard wines. If I had to pick one wine from their range which represents the style more than any other, then this would be it.
The 2020 brings us back to old school style Kumeu River: the 2019s, as good as they were, were highly charged in their aromatics. The 2020s are much darker on the fruit spectrum, bringing us back to the 'Burgundy-but-better' style which we love KR for. This wine reminds me so much of a village Puligny Montrachet, in fact it is almost a facsimile for those made by Paul Pernot, just with a little more richness. Pound for pound, this has to be one of the best white wine bargains anywhere in the Southern Hemisphere.
"Lightly but not excessively reductive on the nose. Already quite expansive on the nose with beautiful impact on the palate: citrus, blossom and really neat acidity without much astringency. Elegant and racy – almost lightweight on the mid palate and then it is impressively persistent. A thorough delight already. VGV." Jancis Robinson MW, jancisrobinson.com