Feudi di San Gregorio 2019 Falanghina 'Albente'
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Feudi di San Gregorio is a thoroughly modern winery making wines which are vibrant and fruit forward. Their Falaghnina Albente is packed with notes of stoned and tropical fruits, and a rich mouthcoating palate
The Wine Region
Campania is the gateway to the south of Italy, entering via Lazio to the north. On reaching the vineyards here, you can find a wealth of indigenous and international varieties, of which there are 57 permitted across the region (the 'Heinz' of Italy, as I like to call it), added to that you have many sub-regions dominated with volcanic soil, making it a destination for lovers of distinctive and authentic wines.
Surprisingly for the South, the whites here are, on average, pretty good, owing to the high quality grape varieties such as Fiano, Falanghina and Greco, each of which having its own distinctive character. Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo certainly being among the highlights. Here you can also find powerful reds, notably from the south's most noble black variety, Aglianico, where it reaches its peak with the wines of Taurasi from the historic producer Mastroberardino. Off the beaten track, right at the end of the Apennines you will find the lesser known DOC of Sannio, home to one of the South of Italy's best co-operatives (and the hardy, ancient tribe of the Samnites who held off the onslaught of the Roman Army for decades), La Guardiense. We are mightily impressed by the quality of wine that this relatively large producer can turn out, in particular their Falanghina. Always pursuing our quest for exciting and authentic wines, we happened across the wines of Guido Marsella - quite a remarkable producer of Fiano di Avellino, which has impressive ageing potential
The major factors that influence how a wine tastes are its grape variety, climate and the human factors of winemaking and viticulture, but it all begins with the soil, the dirt from which the vine is nourished. Varying soil types, their fertility, water retain capacity and mineral content all play a part in the wine's quality and style.
The world of wine is dotted with little pockets of volcanic regions, whether active or long extinct, and these soils impart their own distinctive character in the resulting wines. Generally speaking, volcanic regions are low in fertility, which is great for grapevines as this encourages the vine to produce sweeter and richer berries. The wines from these regions certainly do echo the drama of volcanoes and many wine drinkers seek out the wines for their distinctive minerality, and crisp acidity.
For further reading, we thoroughly recommend John Szabo's comprehensive book on the topic, Volcanic Wines: Salt, Grit and Power.