Cantine Belisario 2019 Verdicchio di Matelica Terre di Valbona
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Verdicchio is a candidate for one of Italy's best white varieties. A subtle but complex nose, just a touch of honey and almonds on the palate and always good acidity
The Wine Region
Marche
Marche on the Adriatic coast is known mostly for its white wines from Verdicchio, of which there are two subzones, Matelica and Castelli dei Jesi. There has been a quality revival of these two wines in the last two decades, being previously dominated by large co-ops and bottlers. There is now more than a handful of quality-minded producers working with lower yields and experimenting with barrel ageing, which due to the full body and high acidity of this variety, it can absorb this remarkably well. Verdicchio is genetically identical to Trebbiano di Soave, and is now though to be one of Italy's most important white varieties, in term of quality at least.
As far as reds go, the grape varieties used here are influenced by its neighbours: Sangiovese from Tuscany to the west, and Montepulciano from Abruzzo to the south. There is one, however, that is a distinctly native variety, Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, which produces highly aromatic wines.
The Producer
Cantina Belisario
This 300 hectare co-operative is situated in Matelica, in the larger wine region of Marche, which is a smaller zone than Castelli di Jesi. The co-operative has 24 organically cultivated vineyards that are situated further inland than Castelli di Jesi, where the climate is more continental. Here, the combination of warm days and cool nights allows the aromatic qualities of the grapes to develop and extends the growing season, so that harvest takes place as late as the second half of October.